Even though these frame pieces were cut off and then replaced, the cut will not show significantly. Trim the edges with swiss pear as shown in the photos. Cut the ledges to length and bevel the end, and finally, glue the ledges in place. You can use a 24" length of wood for the first 5 layers because they will be covered over with the finishing layer. Veneer Calipers for measuring wood thickness (Micro Mark #82556) But before the hull can be faired, the stern transom must be framed. As time permits, I'll add more plans. A SLIP OF THE BLADE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. A scale drawing of the stern of the model is provided in your ZIP file which may help in taking measurements for locating parts. Use a piece of 1/4" (.250") square swiss pear wood to make it. After making the first cut, set the blade to a height of .170" and make a second cut at the other end of the joint, again, aligning the blade with the template pattern joint edge. At the fore end of the deck is a structure called the bitts. Most of their anchors come with the wooden part already cut out, but you can make your own if you want to. The photos of Hahn's model show all of this.     (1) .062" package of grating strips from Model Expo     Various grits of sandpaper     (4) .062" x .093" x 24" swiss pear - Moldings http://bobsmodelships.com/HannahDrawings.zip, 11 Concrete Tips to Improve Your Watercolors. Most hobby shops and craft stores sell this plywood made by Midwest. Your model boat's hull should look completely smooth after sanding it. You will likely want a wood plane or sandpaper. You may find a complete ship model tool kit that will provide everything you need to get started. To make such a small part, I would first cut a board into billets that are 5/16" thick.

This article has been viewed 205,543 times. Copyright 2009-2018 Building-Model-Boats.com, Trademarks belong to their respective owners. Use the drawing with the file name "Building Jig Shelf" as a template to cut the center out. This particular model is not what we modelers call "historically correct" because the framework that makes up the hull is a stylized method of framing and not an actual duplication of the historical framework used. First, I'd like to cover some of the tools you will need to build this model. I put a finish on my frames before assembly for two reasons. All our ship model kits & boat model kits come with all timbers, fittings, plans and instructions to complete the ship model. There are 7 beams and 7 ledges. The end where the hole was drilled was rounded on the corners with a jeweler's file and small notches were filed on each side to make this part of the chainplate look more separated.     Variable speed scroll saw The four sides are made from 1/16" thick boxwood. The sides of the ladder are made from 1/16" boxwood, and the steps are made from 1/32" boxwood. Their ship model kits use photo-etched brass, cast metal fittings, cast metal and machined turned brass fittings. To give the model more contrast, I added a row of .231" x 1/32" (.031") holly, which is very white and clear. Refer to the Top View drawing to get their length and width.

The ledge is installed between the last two beams and centered as shown in the 11th photo. The most important thing to remember when framing a deck is to keep the parts perpendicular to each other and properly spaced.

Let me also mention that the ends of your 6" planks need to be staggered.     (1) 24" x 12" x .187" (3/16") plywood This second piece goes down to the deck as can be seen in that photo. You can start by drilling a small hole using a pin vise and a small drill bit. All of these parts are 1/8" thick. The next plank to go on will be a piece of molding. The black wood across the hull is ebony. The only difference is that you are working with much smaller dimensions so you need a much smaller saw to cut such pieces without tearing the wood up.

To lower the anchor, this locking mechanism could be disengaged. You can use soft basswood for the first 5 layers because the final finished layer will cover them up (color their edges black to match the black ebony).

Each plank will be glued to the bulkheads that it is meant to touch. The outside edges of the shelf piece will have to be trimmed to fit inside the pine or poplar boards that form the base of the jig.

Finally, glue the bitt back into the hole. REMEMBER, A DULL BLADE IS MORE DANGEROUS THAN A SHARP ONE BECAUSE YOU TEND TO USE MORE FORCE TO MAKE THE BLADE WORK FOR YOU. Looking for Modellers Shipyard Model Ship Kits & Modellers Shipyard Model Boat Kits? It makes cutting the rabbet joint much more difficult. This is the last step in this Instructable. Next, cut pieces of .083" x .250" stock to create the tabs or teeth on the keelson. This piece is glued to the underside of the thicker piece and serves as a shelf for the frames to sit on when they are glued into the jig.     Byrnes miniature table saw It’s not rocket science, but sometimes the wheel gets reinvented one too many times in this hobby. These pieces butt up against the sternpost and are glued to the post and to the aft side of the last frame in the model.     (1) 5" x .325" x .850" boxwood - Wing transom Then lay a strip of scrap wood across the stem and mark where it intersects the bitt. A SLIP OF THE BLADE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. After the notches are cut out according to the Jig drawing, the two pieces are butted together and glued. CHANGE BLADES OFTEN, KEEP ALL EQUIPMENT CLEAN AND SHARP, AND BE CAREFUL!

You can see how I used small clamps to glue the two layers together as well as the jig base parts. Set your calipers to this measurement and use them to mark the location of the top of the deck clamp. Most kits require some basic tools to assemble, like a wood plane or sander and small pliers, so make sure to check the requirements before you start building. A SLIP OF THE BLADE CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY. Now you will make the stem which has a corresponding joint where the two parts are joined. "Plank on Frame" means that the planking on the hull is laid across actual frames that are similar to the actual frames of a real ship of this time period. You can drill these holes using a pin vise and a 3/32" bitt.

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